Tag Archives: xmas

merry xwingmas

In the past I loved Christmas, but being far from Winnipeg just over half the Decembers since I stopped living at home has kind of made the need to be with family and do the same things as always sort of less appealing. I like the idea of Xmas traditions and getting together with loved ones and all that, but I like it better with a bit of detachment.

I like being in a country where Xmas isn’t celebrated (or is done with hitting people with inflatable bats for some reason) and having a few people you make something kind of holidayish with. Last year I got to hang out with Holly’s family and I really liked it. I like seeing what other people’s traditions are and fitting into them as best I can.

This year though, I didn’t do anything for Xmas. Scheduling at work is crazy because ’tis the season to take time off. I didn’t have many holiday days anyway, and my mom is going to India, so heading home was a bit less of a draw, since I’d have had to crash friends’ family things. So here I am. I bought myself a Lego set, as that is the traditional Xmas gift in my home, wherever it may be.

Xwingmas from J Unrau on Vimeo.

And now I’m going to watch the good Star Wars movies. Merry Xmas, happy new year and I’m glad the days’ll only get longer for the next few months.

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xmas in virginia

We did eventually see some snow in Virginia. It was out in the woods when we were tramping around and ran into a few West Virginia guys hunting a “burr,” which took some of us a few moments to interpret as ‘bear.’ They had dogs and walkie talkies and later we learned from people of the hunting persuasion that they were probably just doing it for sport. Once they tree the bear with the dogs they let it go again just to say they did it.

This was a couple of days after Xmas though. Maybe I should stay on topic.

We spent Xmas eve over with Holly’s mom’s family and Xmas day we went to her dad’s family. It was interesting hanging around in all these family dynamics that don’t really have much to do with me but that I’ve heard of over the years. (And before you make comments about me marrying into those families one day, you should probably know that Holly and I aren’t planning a future together any more. Which is to say we’ve broken up or parted ways or something else that means we aren’t a couple any longer. We still reciprocally think of each other as a fine person.) I got to talk to people and compare what I thought with what someone much closer to the situation has thought. All very neat. I got to give a library spiel often and listened to the ways other families interact. Holly’s Mom’s family reminded me more of my extended family on my dad’s side, and Holly’s Dad’s of my mom’s. But different. You know, the way people are different.

Of course we ate a lot.

I actually ate pretty terribly the whole time I was there, and have no one but myself to blame. There was a table filled with chocolate and sweets and pie and cookies and it was just there all the time. It was like Halloween for ten days and I couldn’t go find a damned vegetable. The veggies were there, behind the door of the fridge, but that door felt so daunting compared to slightly underdone peanut blossoms that were right there in my path.

We read a whole lot and did not go to Bootville on Holly’s 30th birthday, which would have been fun, because it was called Bootville. It was a rather low-key affair, punctuated by me reading The Graveyard Book aloud.

When we finally left Harrisonburg on the 30th I felt like I’d gotten a good feel for what small-town/rural life might be like. I don’t think of myself as an entirely urban person, since most of my life was spent in little old Winnipeg. But a place like Harrisonburg (especially a half-hour drive from town like where Holly’s parents live) is more different than I’d really thought about.

Then we went to Pennsylvannia to slaughter hogs and I was plunged much further out of my element. But that story needs pictures so it’ll have to wait.

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we haven’t watched miracle on 34th street yet

I’m in Virginia with Holly’s family for Xmas. We got into Dulles airport yesterday morning after taking the redeye from Seattle. Tim and Krista, Holly’s brother and sister-in-law, picked us up at the airport and drove us the couple of hours to Harrisonburg and Holly’s home.

Holly’s family (including parents Nancy and Harry, sister Amy) is really comfortable to hang around with. Everything’s real relaxed and Holly’s Virginia accent is strengthening by the moment. They have cows wandering the property. Yesterday after our (much-appreciated) naps we went up on a hike through the woods up the ridge behind their house. Out on the neighbours’ property they have a firing range set up for shooting at targets from a hundred to a couple of hundred metres away down a hollow.

Today we drove into town to run some errands and it’s kind of weird how spread out town is. It’s a bunch of scattered little settlement areas around hills from each other with farms in between. We went to visit Holly’s grandmother, got eggs from a dairy farm (I suppose there are also chickens around somewhere and these weren’t artificially-shelled cow ova), and got cinnamon buns at a place Holly might get a job. We also saw the town’s library, which was pretty decent, in a nice new building with friendly staff who recommended decent movies when they saw our stack of DVDs we were getting.

I think what I like best is seeing how happy Holly is to be home. I’m never this excited about being in Winnipeg. She’s enjoying the smells of her town and how beautiful the different drives out to her parents’ house are and running into people she hasn’t seen in a long while and being able to tell them she’s staying indefinitely.

The weirdest thing about being here is the lack of snow. It’s like 11 degrees Celsius and there’s no snow. I expected it to feel like fall in Vancouver, but this is a bit odd. The days are still pretty short though, so I don’t quite feel like I haven’t left Oz.

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heterodoxies of the gut

Yesterday Holly and I hung out with Lee and Lisa, who you might remember from the wedding we attended in Nanchong last December (the one with all the roasted 羊肉). Part of hanging out involved heading down to the big vegetable market and buying our week’s supplies of food. Because we know how to show people a good time.

On our way back we also bought three bags of frozen jiaozi (饺子) for dinner, to go with our 豌豆 (it’s possible that’s the wrong character for wan). I love 饺子. Love them to pieces. But I’ve learned that when it comes to prepackaged 饺子 (ie ones that aren’t lovingly created by the hands of SchroederWiebeUnrauPankratzes at Xmas time) vegetarian ones are kind of lousy. So we got a variety of types, all containing meat. We fried them and they were delicious (though we need a better dipping sauce next time).

Peter was eating supper at the same time we were. He’s usually curious about what we’re cooking, asking about techniques and stuff. And he asked about the 饺子, not because he didn’t know what they were, but because “I thought you were vegetarians.” And so Holly explained my curiously arbitrary standards that aren’t very good at being standard at all.

Peter said it turned his image of me completely upside down. I guess that’s good to do sometimes, even if it means I’m not particularly orthodox a vegetarian. I’m not particularly orthodox in any of the rest of my definitions either.

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a pleasant time

Xmas day was beautiful in Nanchong. Actually sunny, and without wind or rain to drive you into a huddling mess. Today, not so much, but you take what you get.

We went to the foreigner Xmas at Karen’s out at the Xihua new campus, where we ate sausage and jiaozi and mashed potatoes and drank coffee. We also played Scattergories, which I played exactly the way Holly had imagined I would play the game: annoyingly. Although to my shame I blanked on a book beginning with R. Just after the buzzer went off, Revelation Space popped into my head. But I prevented Mark from scoring Revenge of the Sith, because the actual title of the book is Star Wars Episode III: Revenge of the Sith (this is what being annoying at Scattergories looks like).

We left early to come back to the bakery, where it was busy as all get out. As in all the people in Nanchong got out of their houses and came to the bakery for pizzas and sangria and such. (I just tasted the wine being used for the sangria – it’s fizzy and weird and not at all like a red wine is supposed to be. Holly’s going back to the place she bought it to get mad.) It was the bakery’s best single day in sales. I washed a lot of dishes.

Today after teaching Sam we had lunch. The first part of lunch almost killed me. Sam’s mom asked if I could eat crab, and foolishly I said yes. I didn’t make the connection that the crabs would be brought to the table cooked whole and bound in string, looking exactly like the armoured spiders of the sea that they are. I got mine open with help from Holly, but couldn’t get past the hairs on the crab legs sitting there as I tried to pick the orange meat from around the guts and brains of the huge bug. I hit these walls when it comes to food in China sometimes. Last time it was that hard was at the pig brain hotpot in Nanjing. But I made it through (and Holly got to eat two crabs).

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I’m hanging out in 麦缘 where it is warm. Holly and Tang Ling have a set meal thing going for the next few days as an Xmas special. It’s the traditional curry pumpkin soup, salad, pizza, apple upside-down cake and sangria Xmas meal we all know and love in every Western household this time of year.

merry xmas

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out in the country

On Wednesday Holly and I got up far too early to go out to a school in the nearby town of Lijia for an extremely well-documented bout of “helping the poor children” (ugh). This wasn’t our idea.

There’s a group of outdoorsy type people who started this organization “Twinkling Stars” to raise some money and do some work for kids after the Sichuan earthquake of 2008. They went to the village they were helping and did some good work I guess. Wednesday was their second trip, and first that wasn’t disaster provoked. They’re customers at the bakery and asked Holly to join them.

The idea was that they went to this poor school, brought a bunch of clothes and stuff to give them and then shared their skills. There were maybe fifteen to twenty volunteers. A lot of them were photographers and some of them were taking good pictures of the kids in a class and then would give prints to their parents. There was some sort of gongfu training I think? Holly was brought along to teach English classes to grade four students.

Of course, this being China, any work could only be done after a multi-hour ceremony outside in the cold with speeches and songs and seven year old girls dancing wearing nothing but gauze. It was maybe 6 degrees out. I wept for them.

Twinkling Stars and the school both knew how to stage these things. We got off the bus that brought us a hundred metres away and walked up to the school with the bags of clothes, all the volunteers wearing orange or yellow jackets. Maybe twenty metres from the school gate the road was lined with kids waving tinsel covered hula-hoops and drumming and chanting “Warm Welcome!” A couple of handfuls of cops kept an eye on things.

As the Twinkling Stars headed up to their seats of honour I peeled off of the group. Because Holly is great, she explained away my disappearance nicely. So through the speeches and performances I didn’t have to sit in the cold, but wandered around the fringes with the parents and other villagers. I was accosted by a few people asking me questions I couldn’t answer (my 中文 classes helped very little for this trip) and got mobbed for a photo once.

When Holly got into the classroom she did a lesson on Christmas vocabulary and played games with the kids. I helped with classes two and three after lunch, as I’m a much better classroom assistant than lead teacher. She’s much better at dealing with a classroom than I am.

For lunch we ate from the cafeteria and then had a session of talking about what we’d experienced that morning. It felt like everyone came up and shared sort of prepackaged moments of the touching things they’d learned (of course, I wasn’t actually paying attention and don’t know the language so I’m probably way off). My favourite part of that was when the girl who (I’m told) is a really cool journalist expressed that she’d had some difficulties with her class. People then appeared (to me, not knowing the language) to be berating her and giving her “encouragement” on how to not suck so much. (Again, just my impression.) She looked like she was going to cry. I just appreciated the idea that someone telling the truth about her experience got jumped on like meat in a tiger pit for not having a warm fuzzy moment.

In the gaps between lunch and classes and between classes and waiting for our bus to leave, there were piles of kids wanting autographs from all these volunteers (not just Holly and me). It was ridiculous and stupid. For a while we signed some things, Holly and I sending messages to each other on the pages we signed for each kid, but it was endless. And I hated the dynamic of that so much. This faux-rock star thing. Just like the banners and the honourific speeches (which you might remember I dealt with on a trip to the country back in the day). The supplication and demanding something that wouldn’t actually be at all useful for them. “There’s no reason for this!” I wanted to grab kids and yell.

Holly and I agreed to stop signing stuff but still had mobs. Holly could laugh it off when one boy tried to get an autograph out of her by saying “We’re so poor though!” but I didn’t even have the language to tell them what the problem was. I hated the not signing things too. Just all over I detest that power dynamic.

On the ride back to Nanchong Holly and I read chapters of Matilda to each other. That doesn’t have anything to do with anything, but it was my favourite part of the day.

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as a warning

Across the street from 麦缘 (Holly’s Bakery) is a gigantic high-rise. In its basement is a vegetable market. On the main floor there’s a nice restaurant that hosts a lot of wedding banquets. The second floor houses a vast 网吧 (internet cafe) with hundreds of computers for the medical college students to play games and watch movies on. Above that point it’s all apartments, probably fairly expensive ones for Nanchong.

But on the front of this edifice the most ghetto “Merry Christmas” is scrawled in fake snow. The words are in completely different hands. The “Christmas” trails across glass, slate and brass at an awkward climbing angle. Holly observed it looked like it was sprayed on by their enemies.

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book review: 2666

I received Roberto Bolano’s posthumous novel 2666 from my mom for Xmas (she would have exploded into a fine mist if she hadn’t bought me anything). And I just finished it this week. It was very good but very dense. I needed to keep on taking breaks to let things seep. Happily, the organization of the book lent itself well to that. There are five parts, each of which could stand alone (though in my opinion each would suffer for it), but which all circle the same area. So, my review.

The Part About The Critics. This section feels like an Umberto Eco novel in some ways. Mostly because it’s about European literary academics who are all specialists on this obscure German writer, Archimboldi. There are four of them, three men and a woman, and it charts how they came to their field and became acquaintances allies and lovers, because of this writer. They decide they have to find him and head to Santa Teresa, Mexico where there are rumours he might be. They go and visit with academics there, do some lectures, but really they’re looking for Archimboldi. In Santa Teresa there have been many murders of women, spoken of like a curse. Supposedly a very tall gringo (Archimboldi was very tall) had been arrested for the crimes. Stuff happens and the story ends with resolution on some fronts but none at all on others. This part was 160ish pages.

The Part About Amalfitano. Now, Amalfitano is an academic who lives in Santa Teresa, and he was the guide for the academics in the first part of the book. This part tells the story of him, his daughter, his wife who abandoned them and a geometry book which he has no recollection of obtaining. The academics don’t show up here, but the whispers of all the murders surround the story. This is a story about sadness, and has a different texture than the part about the academics. While you kind of felt the narrator was treating the academics lightly, as slightly silly people in a world they didn’t really take too seriously, Amalfitano’s part is heavy. Despondent almost. It’s only about 70 pages long, and was my least favourite part of the book.

The Part About Fate. Bolano was clever, because going into this after experiencing the two different approaches of the first two parts, I expected something very abstract about fate and free will. But, Fate is the name of an American reporter who gets assigned to go to Santa Teresa to cover a prizefight between an American and a Mexican. He’s not a sports journalist. He writes stories for a low-circulation black newspaper. The first part of the story is about him going to a church to hear a motivational speaker give his talk about what life is all about. Then he goes to Mexico and tries to learn about the fight. He hangs out with Mexican journalists and cringes at the Americans. It’s interesting because he notes on the race of everyone. He’s the only black reporter covering the fight. There’s a black sparring partner for the Mexican boxer. This section feels Hemingway-ish. Maybe that’s because of the manly subject matter and the journalistic short-sentence style. When he’s in Santa Teresa he hears about the murders and he tries to pitch doing a story on the murders to his editor back in New York, but they don’t care about that. The fight itself lasts three sentences, this tiny little point the rest of the (120 page) section balances on. It was perfect.

The Part About The Crimes. And now we hit the part of the book that made me go wow. This part is 280 pages long (so just short of the length of the three previous parts put together), and it is relentless. There are police officers and narcos and gangsters and crime after crime after crime. Over a four year stretch there are dozens of women who are killed. Most of them are raped. Most of the bodies are found in the desert. There’s also a man pissing in churhces and he has an enormous bladder, but he’s a sideshow. The thing is that these crimes are described in little police-report-esque things. It’s very clinical. Stuff like: “She was found by the side of the road fully dressed. A fractured hyoid bone suggested strangulation but she was also stabbed five times. Swabs showed that she’d been raped vaginally and anally.” And it happens again and again. And again. At first I got sick of reading these paragraphs with all their sordid little details and couldn’t wait to get back to a “story” bit with one of the cops or the reporters who’d been trying to find out what was going on, but as I got further in I realized just how horrible this sheer number of crimes was. Not all of them are connected, but every woman whose murder in Santa Teresa might have been over these years, has their death reported. The relentlessness of the crimes (and the dispassionate recounting) and the inability to put a reason or a person behind them is terrifying. Was there a serial killer? They capture a German-American man and put him in jail, saying he was behind it all, but the crimes keep happening. Things go on and on. In the previous part Fate had met up with a Mexican journalist and they’d gone to the prison where the German-American man was being held to interview him. This was the hardest part of the book to read, the part I was happiest to get through, but also the part that makes the whole thing hang together.

The Part About Archimboldi. The last (260 page) part of the book deals with the life of the German writer those critics from the first part had dedicated their careers to. It’s a story of art and war. Archimboldi had a different name as a young German man, and fought in World War 2 on the German side. This part of the story keeps on digressing into other people’s stories. The story of the Russian science-fiction writer who didn’t write the books that got him purged. The story of Archimboldi’s younger sister. The story of the German who mistakenly received a traincar full of Jews and was told no train would come pick them up so he was to deal with them himself. There are echoes of all the parts of the stories we’ve already heard through the book. The killing of the Jews and the murders of the women and the raping of the Indians by the Spanish all become sort of one in your experience of the book. Archimboldi vanishes from his own story after he starts publishing his books, and we follow his younger sister and her life. In the end, stuff happens, and the whole thing was quite an excellent experience.

So yes, this is a positive review. I approve of it winning awards (even though that doesn’t mean anyone who reads this’ll like it).

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no presents please and thank you

I’ve been trying to tell people more individually but you do not need to buy me Xmas presents this year. I’m not buying anything for anyone. It’s not a poverty thing or a political thing, I just don’t want any reason to deal with stores and commercialized stuff this year. And if I can shorten anyone else’s time in the mall, that’s a pretty good deal too.

A couple of weeks ago I was wandering through St. Vital Centre and passed a cell phone crap kiosk. You know, the kind of place that just sells bits of plastic to encase your phone or attach it to dashboards or whatever? I’d already decided to do this no-gifts Xmas thing, but there were a few wafflings in my head sort of like “Well, maybe I should just get this person this one thing…” And then there was this kiosk. And it had a poster with a bunch of smartphones on it and the text, “You know you love her. Now prove it.” I just hated the fact that message existed and wanted to cry and puke all at once. I took it as confirmation in this year’s buy-nothing ways.

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